After around a 20 minute drive further from Shree Krishna Trichambaram temple, we arrive at the next temple in our temple trail of Kannur in Kerala: The Vaidyanatha temple.

Located at Kanhirangad, 6 kms from Taliparamba and revered as one amongst the 108 ancient Shiva temples of Kerala, stepping in the temple is like stepping back in time.

A flight of stony stairs running through an unkempt plantation, the simply structured temple looking from over from the top and absence of any sign of human life – when you witness scenes like these, it becomes that much more easier to believe what the legends say...

Way to the Vaidyanatha Temple, Kanhirangad - Kannur, Kerala
Way to the Shree Vaidyanatha Temple

This place once served as the hiding abode of Karaskarasura, the demon child of Bhasmasura. One day when sage Parsuram was passing by the forest, he came across the demon and both had an encounter. In the skirmish, Karaskarasura got killed and the sage found a shivlingam in a fountain of the courtyard. On inquiring more about the beautiful looking shivlingam from the sage Narada, He came to know of its powerful healing abilities and how its worship had once cured the leprosy struck Aditya (Sun God) relieving Him of his illness. This prompted him to install that lingam for the betterment of the whole of mankind, in the same place that we call the Vaidyanatha temple today – the temple with magical healing powers.

A series of steps take you to the main temple resting gently on a hilltop. Passing through the structure of the main gate gives a feeling of having entered the doors of any simple house and that is where, I believe, this temple’s prime beauty lies - in its sheer simplicity and minimalist appeal. The gates open in a spacious compound where a large deepam (lamp) burns bright to the left.

Deepam inside the Vaidyanatha Temple, Kanhirangad - Kannur, Kerala
A deepam burns bright inside the temple

I see pilgrims hurry to make their way to the sanctum as it’s time for the evening arti (prayer). We follow suit and soon, the main temple hall is filled with rhythmic sounds of temple bells, chants and hymns. What I can’t get my eyes off from though, are the lights in the sanctum... emanating from the multitude of deepams thereby arresting the dark of the sanctum in its brilliant dazzle and revealing the deity in all its radiance. The temple is small in size but the Lord is clearly visible, devotees are less in number hence the noise is at a minimum: all these elements together constitute for a beautiful experience, one that permeates the chambers of the heart once we close our eyes in prayer and bow our head in reverence. The bliss of warmth and prayers ends with a few Tulsi leaves and some ash which is distributed as prasadam.

The Vaidyanatha Temple, Kanhirangad - Kannur, Kerala
The inside of the Vaidyanatha Temple, Kanhirangad - Kannur, Kerala
The Vaidyanatha Temple compound

The circumambulation path reveals more - murals and paintings dating back decades and centuries. The antiquity is appealing and the craftsmanship interesting yet what brings people to this temple is their immense faith in the temple’s mystical remedial abilities. Be it the Ksheeradhara (pouring of milk on the lingam), the Jaladhara (pouring of water on the lingam), the temple well or the Shivlingam itself, the temple is believed to be abundant in features that have magical healing powers. That is also how the temple deity comes to be revered as the Vaidyanatha, the Master of medicines and healing. 

As I make my way down the very steps that had taken me up, I cannot help but think of the place as a modern (and effective?) therapeutic center for all those who believe... One where strong faith and resolute endurance is all that is asked for in the name of a fee and the ones who are willing to pay it...

... are the ones who return blessed.


Traveler tips and other information:

Bhagawathy, Ayyappan and Ganapathy are the other deities in the temple.

Festivals: Shivratri is the main festival which is in the month of Kumbam (February/March). Another auspicious occasion is the Aaru Nhayar (Sunday that falls on the 6th day of any Malayalam month). Besides this, prayers offered on any Sunday in general are also considered to be auspicious in nature as the deity was consecrated on a Sunday.

Dress code: Mundu is the dress code to be followed by Men.

Remember to: Plan your visit such that you include the Taliparamba Sree Raja Rajeswara Shiva temple (next temple post) and the Trichambaram Sri Krishna Temple along with the Vaidyanatha Temple in your temple trail – all the three constitute the local holy trinity of temples held in high regard and are administered by a single cohesive authority, Thaliparambu-Trichambaram-Kanhirangad Devasom.

Photography: Is prohibited inside the main temple.

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