What better place there can be to conclude our Char Dham Yatra - virtually or otherwise – than at the feet of the Lord Himself…?

Yes, the final few minutes of the Char Dham Yatra of ours, saw us at the Har ki Pauri Ghat – the most venerated spot in the holy town of Haridwar. Literally, it means Lord Vishnu's (Har Ki) footsteps (Paudi), but it is today synonymous with the prolific event of Kumbh Mela, (that takes place four times every 12 years at 4 different sites, Haridwar being one of them) and for the highly enthralling evening Ganga Arti that holds the charm to captivate thousands of pilgrims from all over the world.

This highly prestigious event of Haridwar or Ganga arti was the one thing I was very much craving to attend. Add to it the fact that I had already  been eluded by it twice before, in Varanasi and Allahabad, only made matters worse by increasing my yearnings even more. Even this time around, the situation being a bit dicey with the timings of our train departure (8.00 PM) and the Ganga Arti (6.45 PM) clashing with one another, our attending the event was highly dubious and a final call on the same was going to be a real time decision only…

A Photologue on the Evening Ganga Arti at the Har Ki Pauri Ghat, Haridwar

5:30 PM - At about half past five in the evening, crowds have already begun to gather. Steps are being occupied thick and fast by devotees pouring in from all corners of the town. Priests sit on raised wooden planks calling out to pilgrims to perform various pujas for the well being of their family and near and dear ones.

Priests sitting on raised wooden planks at the Har Ki Pauri Ghat in Haridwar
Priests sitting on raised wooden planks at the Har Ki Pauri Ghat, Haridwar
Priests looking out for devotees at the Ghat

Temple bells tinkle periodically to give out a sweet melody…

A Temple on the banks of River Ganga in Haridwar
Main Ganga Temple on the banks of har Ki Pauri in Haridwar
A temple on the banks of the River Ganga at the Har Ki Pauri Ghat in Haridwar
Ancient Temples dedicated to Mother Ganga and Lord Shiva
at the Har Ki Pauri Ghat

The chants, the prayers and the melody of devotional hymns reverberate in the air creating a pulsating drone...

Devotees take part in various rituals at the Har Ki Pauri in Haridwar
Priests sitting on raised wooden planks and performing certain rituals at the Har Ki Pauri Ghat in Haridwar
Groups of people offering their prayers to Mother Ganga

A heady blend of intoxicating aroma arising from incense sticks and fresh flowers wafts freely through the soft yet humid atmosphere,  giving the entire setting a magical ambiance...

Har Ki Pauri Ghat, the main ghat in Haridwar
Leaf Diyas and a traditional pooja thali (prayer plate) on sale for the devotees

By and large, all the groups assembled at the steps maintain a very peaceful atmosphere.

Pilgrims gathered at the Har Ki Pauri Ghat in Haridwar for the Evening Ganga Arti
A crowd of devotees assembled at the Har Ki Pauri Ghat for the Ganga Arti

The ghats, in contrast, are abuzz with activity.

Crowds gathered at the Har Ki Pauri Ghat in Haridwar for the evening Ganga Arti
Pilgrims engrossed in various ritualistic activities
at the Har Ki Pauri Ghat in Haridwar

Many can be seen splashing water onto their faces and heads, while others are busy floating leaf diyas (candles) in Her waters and some just find content by standing transfixed with hands folded and heads bowed down in prayer.

A devotee lights a leaf diya to set afloat on the River Ganga at the Har Ki Pauri Ghat in Haridwar
A Man lights a leaf diya on the steps of the Ghat

Wiggling my way through the swarm, I reach Her shores and kneel down. I lower my hands in the cold yet comforting waters and feel the sense of Her soothing touch deftly caress the tip of my hands. Tiny ripples tumble gently over giving me a strange feeling of kinship possibly developed from our coupled travels so far. Young and bubbly in Gangotri, soft in Harsil, considerably mellowed in Rishikesh and now here… In a split second, Her various avatars from days gone by flash in front of me taking me back into a nostalgic journey but before I can dive deep, Her whooshing sound wakes me up bringing me back to reality  and reminding me to take pleasure in the moment as this is to be our last summit together… and while She is an eternal traveler with a long road ahead of her, mine is soon to end. I have to now head back home…

A diya floats atop the River Ganga at the Har Ki Pauri Ghat in Haridwar
A diya floats on top of the River Ganga

By the time, I climb back again, the sun is all set kissing the horizon and the steps are fully occupied. The chit-chatter amongst the crowd has risen substantially and so has the anticipation for the Ganga arti to commence.

Pilgrims gathered at the Har Ki Pauri Ghat in Haridwar for the evening Ganga Aarti
Sea of pilgrims at the Har Ki Pauri Ghat in Haridwar Moments before the Evening Ganga Arti begins
Waiting moments just before the commencement of the Ganga arti
at the Har Ki Pauri Ghat in Haridwar

I take a vantage point somewhere and spend a few quiet moments in retrospection. The bells, the temples, the waters, the devotion, the faith, all the elements in the atmosphere work in unison to nourish the mind, body and soul.

The Har Ki Pauri Ghat in Haridwar just before the Evening Ganga Arti
Spend a few solitary moments with the Mother before parting...

Men in blue uniforms roam around asking for donations, the proceeds from which shall purportedly go towards the Ganga arti. Lights have come on and the river is twinkling with reflections, curious eyes are everywhere. The prayers should begin in any time now.

6.45 PM - The arti still hasn’t begun. But we have a train to catch and can’t wait any further... We need to track back and take leave.

Sight of The Har Ki Pauri Ghat in Haridwar
With Your permission, we leave dear Mother...
Bidding Adieu..

As we make our way back through the markets towards our car for the Haridwar station, strikingly loud chants of ‘Ganga Maiya ki Jai’ resound in the atmosphere. I feel a pinch in my heart, why does this have to happen to me again and again, somehow I console myself and move on... Time to get back home and plan another one of my yatras…

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