Day 3 - Uttarkashi - Chowrangikhal - KEMUNDAKHAL - Birahi

After stuffing ourselves in Chowrangikhal, we once again hit the highway and proceeded towards Birahi. Soon the thick curtains of the deodhars opened up to unveil the awesome sight of the rugged green mountains, the plunging gorges, the rolling meadows...

Beautiful old world charm and natural scenic beauty of the Himalayan environs
and the lush green fields – a far cry from the Mumbai concrete jungle!

Magnificient fields enroute to Birahi in the Himalayas
Step-cut fields in the mountains

Picturesque villages with its old world charm with its little box like cottages tucked precariously on top of mountains looked quaint and beautiful as opposed to the ugly crowding in the cities.

Tiny villages of the Himalayan mountains enroute in the Char Dham yatra
Quaint Himalayan settlements on our way up towards Birahi

Today was Choti Diwali, one of the biggest Hindu festivals, and I was so missing all the colors and festivities back home. But just as I thought I would have to celebrate it alone this year, I saw small children accompanied by young beautiful women with baskets on their shoulders walking by…


Pretty and shy village woman on the Himalyan roadway to Badrinath
Our speeding car made them stop in their trail to stare at us, some gave us coy shy glances,
Kids headed toward the fields for work in the Himalayas
some welcomed us with warmth and love,
A smiling chirpy village kid wishing us Happy Diwali in the mountains
while some were just too busy to even notice us!
A kid doing some Gardening work in the Himalyas

Though we did not have any sweets to share with them, but still keeping with the tradition of the festival, we shared whatever little biscuits and chocos we had with these simple village souls who in return gave us their white toothy smiles and joyous faces and made sure to make the festival a memorable and special one for us!

Our Second Halt of Day 3 - Kemundakhal

As we clocked the miles, the lush greenery receded and the snowcapped mountains inched closer. The skies were clear but it was colder than ever. A few hrs later we made our second halt of the day. This time to take the blessings of Goddess Jagdamba at a village called Kemundakhal.

Idol of Maa Jagdamba at the local Temple at Kemundakhal
Idol of Goddess Jagdamba at the Temple

The temples in the villages, steeped in spiritual belief, appear to be small but exude tremendous power. The people of the mountains are deeply wedded to their ancient traditions and hold their patron deities in high veneration. Detached from the rest of the world outside, and living in difficult climatic conditions, they strongly believe that their Gods will protect them from harmful forces and bring prosperity and happiness amongst their community.

A village man performing rituals at the Maa Chamundeshwari Temple at Kemundakhal
A old man praying to their local deity in the Himalayas in Kemundakhal temple
An old local villager praying at the Kemundakhal Temple

Before moving ahead we refereshed ourselves with a steaming cup of chai (tea) at a perfect little tea shack right across the temple.

The highway shack where we had tea at Kemundakhal - Enroute to Badrinath
A tea shack in the Himalayas

Now where in the world can you mix such crystal clear views of some of the highest peaks – Kedarnath, Yamunotri and Badrinath – with your hot cup of afternoon tea…? Not even in a 5 star hotel, I bet!

The entire Himalayan peaks visible from Kemundakhal - Enroute to Badrinath
The road ahead...

Back on the roads, we met 4 of the 5 prayags (More on that in a later post) Vishwanath telling us the significance of each. Further up, we passed the villages of Chamoli and Gopeshwar associated with the legend of Lord Krishna and Shiva.

6.30 PM – Quite tired by now, we retired for the day at GMVN's Tourist Guest House (TRH) River View, Birahi.

The river view rest house at Birahi on the Diwali Night - Enroute to Badrinath
GMVN's Hotel in Birahi brightly decked up
on the occasion of 'Small Diwali' Night

My room photographs at the Tourist Rest House of GMVNL - Birahi
Our Room at the Guest House in Birahi

The rooms were clean and had attached bathrooms having hot water. We celebrated Diwali in our little way by lighting earthen lamps outside our room followed by a light but sumptuous meal nevertheless.

Celebrating Choti Diwali In Birahi By lighting earthen Diyas outside our room
Lit earthen diyas (candles) outside our room

I could hear the rapid laps of the Alaknanda waters gurgling in the viscinity but since it had gone completely dark that day and we left quite early the following day, I could never have a view of the Alaknanda River flowing besides the hotel then. However, I did make it a point to revisit the place two days later while descending down from Badrinath and catch the sight in broad daylight, photos of which I am putting up here.

The Tourist river view GMVN rest house at Birahi in Day
Tourist Guest House (TRH) River View, Birahi in daylight

River Alaknanda flowing besides the GMVN rest house, Birahi
River Alaknanda flowing besides the Hotel in Birahi

Tip for Travelers

Food is basic and prepared at the Guest house on order. Give the hotel staff sufficient lead time while ordering your menu.

Just a Quick Update Note:

Today, the 6th of May is Akshaya Tritiya is a very auspicious day according to the Hindu calendar. The gates of Badrinath Dham which had been shut for the past 6 months or so in November last year (just a few days after I had returned from the trip) are opening today. In this virtual travel of ours, we will be reaching there shortly!

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