Part II (Gangotri)
Moving ahead from Gangnani, we passed through small villages like Jhala, Harsil (more on that later), Dharali and Lankachatti with hills, deep gorges, snow capped Himalayan peaks and the River Bhagirathi Ganges flowing alongside giving us constant company all along. We were gaining height with every passing minute but it wasn’t just the altitude that was rising. There was one more thing… my excitement and anxiousness to meet the Ganges in its purest form – at its source!
10 am – Situated at a staggering altitude of 3142 meters or over 10000 feet above sea level, folded in the wraps of the splendid hills of Garhwal… we were finally here – Our first Dham – Gangotri – the source of the River Ganga.
The parking area in Gangotri
The weather was pleasant, a cool breeze blowing across with the sun providing us with the much needed warmth. For such a prominent pilgrimage destination like Gangotri, the place almost wore a deserted look, a far cry from what one can expect in the season period when one has to park one’s vehicle as far as up to 4 kms due to the heavy pilgrim rush and cover the rest of the distance on foot.
The narrow empty lane leading up to the Gangotri Temple
An almost empty lane led us to the main Temple complex. There were no pandas (priests) in sight to catch hold of you, half the shops were closed and though Gangajal bottles lay in abundance, there was no one to buy them!
Shops selling Gangajal bottles and other religious paraphernalia
As we reached the embankment, the Ganga glistened in the sun. Complete silence filled the space. The only noise was from the gurgling river water, the whistling breeze, the occasional clanging of temple bells and the chirping of birds.
The mighty river Ganga, worshipped as a living Goddess
in various forms at Gangotri
In spite of the hint of sunshine, it was quite cold down there. My woolen socks were no resistance to the ice cold rocks, and the same applied to my hand gloves. My hands were numb and the sole of my feet hurt. But I was too happy and excited to mind any of it.
Distant snow clad peaks were clearly visible from the river bank.
Oh! it was heaven, it must be!!
Oh! it was heaven, it must be!!
Due to the extreme cold, I couldn’t brave myself to bathe in Her waters but we did sprinkle a few drops of the holy water onto ourselves and even drank a few drops of it. I sat down there on one of the boulders… even the mere sight of this bliss giving Goddess was something… She was flowing graciously from the high glacial peaks hauling with her an entire civilization, the ancient legends and myths, a complete legacy that has long held on…
People at the main bathing ghat in Gangotri
How can I explain the magic of Her unwavering presence, the power of Her benediction, that ecstasy, that sheer thrill of being in the presence of Gods… It was surely stirring me in some inexpressible way…
The Trident - a form of Shakti aptly placed on the banks of the river Ganga
at Gangotri - one of the Shakti sites of the Char Dhams
We filled some Gangajal bottles for ourselves and our relatives back home and proceeded towards the main temple.
While ascending up towards the temple, one comes across the sanctified Bhagirath Shila, a stone slab where King Bhagirath had meditated to bring the river Ganges on earth…
The Bhagirath Shila near the banks of the Bhagirathi River
The history of the holy River Ganga - How the Ganges came on Earth
According to the traditional history, a Suryavanshi King Sagar, after killing the demons on earth, decided to perform the Ashwamedh Yagna (horse sacrifice) as assertion of his supremacy. The horse was to be taken on an uninterrupted journey around the earth accompanied by his 60,000 sons. Indra (the ruler of heaven), fearing their success and his throne, stole the horse and tied it in Kapil Muni’s ashram while the sage was deep in meditation. The sons came across the ashram in pursuit and on finding their missing horse there, rudely demanded the saint for the same.
When Kapil Muni opened his eyes, all 60,000 of them were turned into ashes. Sagar asked for forgiveness, but the curse could not be reversed. However, Kapil Muni suggested that if the holy Ganga, the river of heaven, were to come down to the earth, the touch of Her waters would ensure the liberation of the princes.
Many descendants of Sagar failed in their efforts to bring the holy Ganga to earth, until Bhagirath was born. He continued his severe penance until Ganga agreed to come down to the earth from the heavens. But Her surge was so fierce that her fall was sure to cause disorder and disaster. Thus, Bhagirath prayed to Lord Shiva to contain Ganga in His matted locks, who in turn agreed thereby releasing only a few drops of Her celestial waters. That is the reason why, the Ganges is called River Bhagirathi here and it becomes Ganga only at Devprayag after meeting the Alaknanda.
The river thus flowed on earth, delivering the sons of Sagar from their curse, cleansing all that was impure in Her path and how it continues to do so even today!
Walking up a few steps from the Bhagirath Shila, on the left bank of the thundering Bhagirathi Ganga, stands the Gangotri Temple raised on a plinth, about 20 ft high, and done up in white stone. The shrine is topped with a gilded roof and crowned with a golden spire.
According to the traditional history, a Suryavanshi King Sagar, after killing the demons on earth, decided to perform the Ashwamedh Yagna (horse sacrifice) as assertion of his supremacy. The horse was to be taken on an uninterrupted journey around the earth accompanied by his 60,000 sons. Indra (the ruler of heaven), fearing their success and his throne, stole the horse and tied it in Kapil Muni’s ashram while the sage was deep in meditation. The sons came across the ashram in pursuit and on finding their missing horse there, rudely demanded the saint for the same.
When Kapil Muni opened his eyes, all 60,000 of them were turned into ashes. Sagar asked for forgiveness, but the curse could not be reversed. However, Kapil Muni suggested that if the holy Ganga, the river of heaven, were to come down to the earth, the touch of Her waters would ensure the liberation of the princes.
Many descendants of Sagar failed in their efforts to bring the holy Ganga to earth, until Bhagirath was born. He continued his severe penance until Ganga agreed to come down to the earth from the heavens. But Her surge was so fierce that her fall was sure to cause disorder and disaster. Thus, Bhagirath prayed to Lord Shiva to contain Ganga in His matted locks, who in turn agreed thereby releasing only a few drops of Her celestial waters. That is the reason why, the Ganges is called River Bhagirathi here and it becomes Ganga only at Devprayag after meeting the Alaknanda.
The river thus flowed on earth, delivering the sons of Sagar from their curse, cleansing all that was impure in Her path and how it continues to do so even today!
Walking up a few steps from the Bhagirath Shila, on the left bank of the thundering Bhagirathi Ganga, stands the Gangotri Temple raised on a plinth, about 20 ft high, and done up in white stone. The shrine is topped with a gilded roof and crowned with a golden spire.
The magnificent Gangotri Temple
The temple at Gangotri, believed to have been consecrated by Adi Shankaracharya, is built by the the Gorkha captain Amar Singh Thapa in the 18th century. However, the temple was renovated in 1935 by the Maharaja of Jaipur, Madhosingh, which is why its architecture resembles the Rajasthani style.
The Gangotri Temple in the lap of the Himalayas
Photography is prohibited inside the temple as is the case with all the famous temples in India. But one thing that was different was that there was absolutely no pilgrim crowd, just the lone priest, me and my family (due to off-season of course). With no pushing and shoving, no peeking above shoulders and no one pesking you to move-on, we were almost feeling like a VIP getting some kind of a special darshan!
The priest pointed out the various deities in the sanctum – in the centre was the main deity Goddess Ganga draped in a beautiful white embellished sari surrounded by others like Lord Ganesha, Mother Yamuna, Lord Shiva, Mother Saraswati, Bhaghirath and Goddess Durga - before handing us the prasad of makhanas.
The priest pointed out the various deities in the sanctum – in the centre was the main deity Goddess Ganga draped in a beautiful white embellished sari surrounded by others like Lord Ganesha, Mother Yamuna, Lord Shiva, Mother Saraswati, Bhaghirath and Goddess Durga - before handing us the prasad of makhanas.
Idols of Lord Shiva, Goddess Ganga and King Bhagirath
in the Temple premises
Gangotri – A dream of all Hindus?
I now understand why Gangotri is a dream of all Hindus, the ideal pilgrimage destination. The place complete with its aura of spiritual tranquility is magical… Really! Here time stands still… Very still!! It throws you off in a trance... even if you do not have the luxury of faith, the town still doesn’t disappoint and leaves you mesmerized!
12 pm – How I wished time could just stop that day… the place was heavenly, perhaps even better and I could have spent hours there… doing absolutely nothing! But a fair bit of distance was still to be covered… It was time to move…
Related information
Rituals at the banks of the river Ganga
Related information
Rituals at the banks of the river Ganga
Various rites and rituals like shraadh and pind daan are performed on the banks of the River Ganga and are believed to deliver the pilgrims forefathers from various cycles of rebirth. The water (Ganga Jal) from Gangotri is also collected to be offered at the 12 Jyotirlingams, Kedarnath and Rameswaram.
Season - When to visit Gangotri
The temple opens on the auspicious day of Akshay Tritiya (May) and closes down on Yama Dwitiya or Bhai Duj (November) and remains closed down for the rest of the six months every year. During that time, the idol is taken to the nearby Mukhba village near Harsil (25 kms from Gangotri). Considered the winter home of the Goddess, the devotees are required to pay their obeisance at the village for the 6 month period.
Temple Timings –
4 am - Utthapan (Awakening) and Shringar (Adornment)
6 am - Mangala Arti (Morning Prayer)
9 am – Rajbhog (The morning feast)
2 pm – Shayan (Sleep)
3 pm – Utthapan (Awakening)
6.30 pm - Shringar (Adornment)
7.45 pm - Sandhya Aarti (Evening Prayer)
9 pm - Shayan (Sleep)
Note that the timings might be a little bit different in summers and winters.
How to reach Gangotri - Important Distances
It is approximately 300 kms from Dehradun, 250 kms from Rishikesh, 100 kms from Uttarkashi and 60 kms from Gangnani. It is accessible directly by car and bus.
To view the travel route map for Gangotri - CLICK HERE.
Previous posts from this trip -
