Saturday, March 21, 2015

Pyaaz Kachori, Dal-Bati, Jalebi and More: What to Eat in Jaipur and Where!

She is bedecked in ornate havelis, opulent palaces and arched havelis. One glance at her magnetic beauty and be warned: You will be smitten. Love-struck for life. Not that there’s much about it that you can do though. Jaipur is like that, impossible to not fall for: graceful, charming, elegant … and royal – only some of the adjectives that follow her like a troll, in guidebooks, in destination leaflets and also on My Yatra Diary. It’s true too – for all the wonderful sights that she packs in, Jaipur oozes every bit of royalty in every sense of the word.

But, can you guess what makes the city truly royal for me?

Deep fried snacks at Shri Ram Chaat Bhandar, Gheewalon ka Raasta, Jaipur food, Rajasthan

Let me tell you. It’s her crazily delicious food – therein lies the charm in her persona that actually connects her to the common masses on the streets, the Aam Aadmi, despite all the royalty talks. There are so many tantalizing flavors to choose from – Samosas, Kachoris, Jalebis, Lassi, Kanji vadas, Gatte ka saag, Missi roti, etc. – you might as well imagine the whole of the city as one BIG buffet restaurant where you are free to stop, choose, pick, fill your plate and then move on! So, let’s not waste any more time and set out for a finger licking, lip smacking roller coaster gastronomic ride on the streets. Dig in!


Don’t be fooled by its modest appearance.

At the busy Chaura Rasta, Samrat Fast food eating joint lies bang in the center
of the old city and it’s been standing there for a series of decades now.

Samrat Restaurant, Chaura Raasta, Jaipur food, Rajasthan

Rather, take delight in the crunchy crispy delicacies that it has on offer. They have a decent standing eating area outside along with a takeaway counter and a somewhat cramped seating space inside, both of which cater to hundreds of empty stomachs every morning. The place is fairly clean, prices are unbelievably reasonable and the taste of the dishes extremely appetizing – some of the reasons why it’s so popular with the locals.

What to eat?

At Samrat, there is a lot of fried stuff on offer but it’s their Samosas, Pyaz Kachoris and Jalebis that I love best. What adds to this delightful flavor is the fact that you can actually see the Samosas - boiled, mashed, spiced potato filings in deep fried conical flour case - and Pyaaz Kachoris – again deep fried and punched with a strong Pyaaz or onion essence - coming nice and crisp out of the boiling oil right in front of your eyes.

Kachori being fried, Jaipur Street Food, Samrat Restaurant
Hot piping Kachoris taking a dip in the bubbling oil.
Samosas at Samrat Restaurant, Chaura Raasta, Jaipur food, Rajasthan
Crispy, Crunchy Samosas at Samrat's, in Jaipur
Pyaaz Kachori at Samrat Restaurant, Chaura Raasta, Jaipur food, Rajasthan
You just can't miss the strong essence of onion in Pyaaz Kachoris.
Of course, this breakfast is not complete unless you help yourself with a generous serving of hot piping Jalebis coated in the sticky-slurpy chasni. These incredibly sweet Jalebis are pretty thin, so you can eat 5-6 pieces at one go and still walk away feeling light on the stomach.

Jalebis deep fried at Samrat Restaurant, Chaura Raasta, Jaipur food, Rajasthan
Jalebis at Samrat Restaurant, Chaura Raasta, Jaipur food, Rajasthan
Thin crusty hot piping ultra sweet Jalebis
After gorging on the richly fried stuff, I always wash it down with a cup of Samrat’s special tea which is really good and a great way to wrap up your first morning meal.

Samrat Restaurant  Special Tea, Chaura Raasta, Jaipur

How to get there?

Samrat Fast Food and Caterers is located on the Chaura Rasta, shop number 272, opposite State Bank of Bikaner. Head east from MI Road and turn left at New Gate Circle onto Chaura Raasta. The shop is canopied by a huge tree and shall appear on the right.

+91-9828601904 / +91-9828601904


Hanuman dhaba looks like any typical Indian dhaba that you can imagine from the Indian highways, except that this one is located in one of the most prime locations of Jaipur. The ambiance stays true to the name – basic seating arrangement with pictures of God Hanuman adorning the walls.

Hanuman Dhaba hotel in Jaipur

Popular with the locals for serving hot and fresh food, the dhaba has two floors for catering to its wide chain of customers which includes people of all ages and groups – from students to professionals to families and travelers.

What to eat?

Hanuman Dhaba, Jaipur Food, Rajasthan

When I went there last, I ordered sarson ka saag and makki ki roti which was the ‘dish of the day’ along with chana masala and missi roti which tasted quite simply homelike – just what I was looking for. The prices are worth the quality of the meal which left me feeling nice and full.

How to get there?

Hanuman Dhaba is located in the posh Raja Park area in Jaipur at shop numbers 72-77. You can first conveniently reach Raja Park area and from there, take the Vidyalaya Marg. Keep your eye towards the right, Hanuman Dhaba will be there!


As far as I am concerned, after the lunch, all I need is a cool glass of Lassi at MI Road.

Lassiwala, MI Road, Jaipur since 1944

The shop remains busy for most of the mornings through the afternoon serving heavenly milk based preparation of lassi in small earthen glasses known as kulhads. The place maintains a good standard of cleanliness and hygiene as it popularly caters to not only to the locals and the domestic tourists but the international crowd as well.

What to drink?

What else but Lassi! Sweet sour whipped yoghurt topped with a thick rich creamy layer sometimes scented with a rose flavor, the glass of lassi comes in two sizes – big and small. Though the curdly coolant can be a bit heavy on the palette but the taste is so refreshing and cool that I easily gulp one glass full even when I am there after my meals!

Whipping fresh curd at Lassiwala, MI Road, Jaipur

Beware of duplicate shops though; there are many that have now sprung up in the vicinity. Make sure to head to the one in the far corner Kishan Lal Govind Narain Agarwal, the name of the original proprietor under which the shop has been in the running since 1944.

How to get there?

Reach the MI road and ask the locals for the oldest famous lassiwala, I imagine it would be impossible to find a local who would not know about this place – it’s legendary!

Timings: Till 12.30 in the mornings only.


Step in, in any respectable street corner and you will find a thela or hole-in-the-wall shops dishing the savoury spicy insanely tasty North Indian snacks wafting out a tantalizing aroma that are irresistible to miss. These are shops that don’t necessarily have a name and often come across as dubious in their hygiene standards. The best way to figure them out is to select the ones that have a crowd around their cart – if they are famous with the locals, it’s for a reason!

What to eat?

To satisfy my Pani Puri – crispy flour dumplings dunked in tangy water infused with the right amount of spices – (and for shopping, of course) Bapu Bazaar is the place I head to.

Pani Puri vendor at Bapu Bazaar
Pani Puri, Jaipur Street Food, Bapu Bazaar
Pani Puri, anyone?
At the junction of Saraogi mansion, just where Bapu Bazaar starts, there are a few thelas specializing in savory Indian snacks. These push carts are not famous by any name but you can easily spot them by the flocking locals during the afternoon and evening times.

Look out for a Bombay sandwich cart somewhere in there too –
for Rs. 20, this guy makes excellent sandwiches too.

Bombay sandwich at Bapu Bazaar, Jaipur food, Rajasthan

Walk further from the Saraogi-Bapu junction, about 10 shops later, you will find this Indian Ice cream and Kulfi Falooda joint on the left hand side. The goodness of their ice creams can be gauged by the fact that it is a hit with the customers not only in the sweltering heat of the city but even in the winter season!

Indian Kulfi Icecream, Jaipur Street Food, Bapu Bazaar

The mixed Kulfi Falooda cup is a rich creamy gooey delight with all sorts of colors - pink, yellow, white popping out onto you. Topped with slimy falooda noodles, it's worth going for at least once during your trip.

Ice cream at Bapu Bazaar, Jaipur food, Rajasthan
Rich and creamy Indian Kulfi - to beat the heat!

How to get there?

Ask anyone for Saraogi mansion or Bapu Bazaar, both are landmarks in their own right. This no-name hole-in-the-wall little foodie corner is spread right at the junction where Saraogi Mansion stands and the colorful shops of Bapu Bazaar starts.


If it’s a truly Rajasthani snack that’s on your mind – try the Kanji Vadas at Shri Ram Chaat Bhandar located at Gheewalon ka Raasta. It’s a small hole in the wall shop lined along the chaotic narrow alley of Ghee walon ka rasta and boasts of its own set of loyal customers passed down through generations.

Shri Ram Chaat Bhandar, Gheewalon ka Raasta, Jaipur food, Rajasthan
Mirchi Vadas at Shri Ram Chaat Bhandar, Gheewalon ka Raasta, Jaipur food, Rajasthan
A quick glance at Shri Ram Chaat Bhandar @ Gheewalon Ka Raasta
There is a small sit-down eating area inside or if you are in a hurry – you can stand and eat outside too but beware of the never ending traffic. The place is decently clean with the owner, a humble courteous Marwari, serving with a warm hospitality.

What to eat?

My pick of the lot is the extremely fluffy and incredibly light Kanji Vadas which are moong dal dumplings soaked in a spicy, flavorful, mustard liquid that is exceptionally good for the stomach as it is for the senses.

Kanji Vadas at Shri Ram Chaat Bhandar, Gheewalon ka Raasta, Jaipur food, Rajasthan
The soft and fluffy Kanji Vadas dunked in delicious mustard water.
Priced at a modest Rs. 20 per plate, the Kanji Vadas are light and healthy not only on the stomach but on the pocket too. Don’t forget to ask for an extra serving of the tantalizing refreshing liquid Kanji – it’s an amazing digestive concoction that will empty your stomach for more!

How to get there?

Shri Ram Chaat Bhandar is located at shop number 176 in Johri Bazaar near Jain Mandir. Pass the Sanganeri gate and continue straight to reach the Johri Bazaar and Gheewalon Ka Rasta. The shop will be on the right.



All said and done – like we bloggers always do, I too saved the best for the last. Getting invited to a Rajasthani home for a warm, cozy dinner in the company of a loving family is something that nourishes not only your tummy but also your soul.

Bajra Baati, Jaipur food, Authentic Rajasthan
Churma being cooked, Jaipur food, Authentic Rajasthan
Bajra Bati and Churma being prepared for the home meal.
I consider myself really fortunate to have had a chance to savor such delicious meals serendipitously at places and with people I never thought I ever would.

Home meal in Rajasthan Food
Food being cooked and smiles being swapped - bliss!
These homes might seem very basic - somewhere off the track, on dirty mud tracks, lighted with oil lanterns – but they are infused with such a heavy dose of love and warmth that you simply won’t find elsewhere. The same energy is further passed on in the meals they cook – which is doused in traditional Rajasthani flavors using a lot of gram flour, pulses, dried vegetables and pure ghee in their preparations.

Home meal, Jaipur food, Authentic Rajasthan
A traditional simple Rajasthani meal (Gatte ki Sabji, phulka, Kadhi, Churma and curry)
Yummilicious food along with tales swapped together make for a memorable evening worth relishing for a lifetime.


These are my foodie picks from the city of Jaipur and
I know there's a lot that I have missed out here!
So, let's move on to you -
Do you have any recommendations other than the options mentioned above
that I should try the next time I am in Jaipur?
Street food joints, hole in the wall shops, restaurants for buffet lunch
or buffet dinner in Jaipurit could be anything - write away!

Would you like to share this article with your friends?


  1. Everything looks so delicious!

  2. Such a mouth wateringly delicious post, I love jalebis

  3. Makes me hungry Arti! Hope you have a lovely weekend!

  4. A truly exciting delicious amazing gastronomic tour-a incredible irresistible feast for the eyes. Only the brave,resistant and rugged can undertake such journeys.And you Arti belong to this tribe :)

  5. Awesome post :) Thanks a lot for your post.

  6. Great food picks! Jaipur seems to be a city for foodies. I am heading there this monsoon..will remember your suggestions. Thanks!

  7. I am wishing i had never landed on this post. I am a big fat foodie and love jalebis, dosa, naam, chole bhature and ice you can imagine my poor state now :)

    Whenever i go back to my home town Ambala, i go for a few of them...there are a few shops with their own specialties.

  8. Hi Arti,

    Such yummy looking food and it is making me hungry just looking at it.
    Hope you are enjoying the weekend

  9. My mouth is watering. I will keep these places in mind as I am visiting Jaipur shortly. Thank you for that lovely ride, Arti.

  10. yum yum yum yum .........yummylicious post dear !!

  11. It's a delicious post Arti :-D enhanced my appetite...

  12. Delicious kind of a travel post. :) The first thing I look forward while travelling anywhere is food joints. :D

  13. No matter wherever you go, the above listed food items are preferred, much more than any lavish dish served in hotels. Thanks for making my evening :)

  14. Aaaaaaaaaaahhh, you've got me seriously wanting pyaaz kachoris and dal-baati-churma at midnight!! LOVED this post. Jaipur really does have some amazingly lip-smacking stuff. I've been to some of the places you mentioned; others were new to me so I'll try checking them out on my next visit, whenever that is. Have you been to Rawat's, near the bus stand? Its pyaaz kachori is also unbelievable. I found LMB quite over-hyped (and over-priced), but it does serve great food. Thanks for a yummy post :D

  15. Yummy post! Jaipur is a foodie paradise!

  16. This is quite a detailed post. And I like that you have told us about the nooks and crannies rather than big hotels. Some of these like the lassi or bombay sandwich is something I wouldn't have attributed to Jaipur.

    The Kanji Vada sounds interesting. And of course, Dal bati is a mainstay of Rajasthani cuisine.

    Have you seen the movie desi Romance which is set in Jaipur? What struck me about it was the yummy food Rishi Kapoor is always eating. I think you have given us a taste of that.


  17. Rawat kachori near polo victory....shankar bhojnalaya (rajasthani thali) near sindhi camp , good food with economical price but bad ambiance. & LMB ( food / sweet shop) - Johari bazar

  18. Palate tickling...enjoyed the chat land immensely!

  19. All so mouthwatering dishes Arti. Wish I got this infor before I travelled to Jaipur last year :)

  20. Everything looks so yummy & delicious, Arti!
    I remembered the street food of Odisha.
    Even I want :)
    Love all the Incredible India food!
    So much variety & so good!

  21. I started salivating looking at those images. Awesome.

  22. Well,well,you have wrapped them all up in this delicious post.I don't think anything remains to be said.Rajasthanis are real foodies and everything you mentioned tastes out of this world but the only problem is the chilies lots and lots !

  23. Yum yum yum!!! Arti, you have made me hungry...I want them all!!!!!!!!!! :D

  24. Delicious food made even more appetizing by your magical words !! now I am dying to visit this place and eat to my heart's content..:(

  25. wow aarti,such mouthwatering pics..I feel like going to Jaipur 'right now' only for the food :)

  26. Such a yummilicious post with such mouth-watering pictures and descriptions.
    That was a delightful read, Arti. :)

  27. These all look so delicious, Arti! My mouth started watering at those Samosas. Yum! Thank you for a wonderful tour of the food and spices of Jaipur. What a great experience it must be to eat with the local family. Thanks for this tour!

  28. hey, that sounds so yummy....the glance at pictures is enough.I love the chat junks of india.

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