Tuesday, September 16, 2014

My Bus Journey from Pathankot to McCleod Ganj + Other Options of getting there

A recent road trip from Pathankot to McCleod Ganj in Dharamshala in a local state transport bus with my dad, made me realize a major something that had been missing from my travels –the joys of travelling in buses as a mode of transport.

A question popped out in my mind out of nowhere: When was the last time I had gleefully opted for a bus over a car or a train?

That’s when, reality struck. I didn't have an answer!

I don’t know exactly when I developed this fascination for luxury and comfort that led me into developing this picture of a bus in my mind – filthy, poor quality of seats, smelly people, long wait in queues at the bus stand, rude conductors and a fat 50% probability of me not getting a window seat!

Buses became the last option for me.

An HPTDC bus for Pathankot to Dharamsala - Himachal Pradesh
A typical scene inside most of the state run buses in India

Thankfully, that’s not how my dad thinks. And he still prefers the bus as THE mode of transport over all others especially when he travels solo. He can see the other side of the picture, I guess – the positive one which I can’t. The good thing is, when I travel with him, he being my travel inspiration; I follow him wherever he goes. And that’s how I get to broaden my perspectives as well.

So the bus it was, and not one, not two but three of them to cover the 90 odd km. distance from Pathankot to McCleod Ganj in Dharamsala. Not only did the 3 hour long journey erase all my bus negativity but also reinstated a few positive points on bus travel that had gathered dust over time.

Here’s sharing the highlights, so perhaps, the next time I am torn between choices, I just need to flip back a few pages and if you are the kind who share my sentiments then well, all I can say is read on, who knows – my experience might just help you rekindle your bus love once again!

1. Helps you budget travel: Saves money!

The cab fare for Pathankot to Dharamsala by car is approximately Rs. 2500/- (non AC) and Rs. 3500 (AC)

Now the contrast and it’s huge.

The bus fare for the same route i.e. from Pathankot to McCleodganj, Dharamsala is a mere Rs. 150 per person per ticket!

Just focus on your wallet for once and imagine the cash saved by the end of such bus journeys. You can spend it elsewhere like shopping or eating. There are options galore. Like consider this one: How about saving it to fund your next travel? Wouldn't that make your journey even more memorable?!

The road from Pathankot to Dharamsala - Himachal Pradesh
Bus or cab... the scenery is going to be the same - then why pay more?

Here's where the buses score, especially those that are run by state transport corporations come really cheap. Even otherwise, when we look at the private sector, there is a swarm of coupon sites online today tied up with companies and together, they are revolutionizing online bus ticketing concept in India.

Coming back to my case, since it was one of those state run buses, we got the tickets then and there, real time at the most basic prices. Needless to say, I ended up using my entire extra bonus on all these options and more. Indeed, both me and my dad, we alighted the bus and marked the beginning of our Dharamsala journey as two highly gratified souls.

2. Interaction with the local crowd.

When I got on to my third bus from Dharamsala to McCleod Ganj, I saw a man, roughly in his thirties – dressed in a maroon robe, his fingers deftly running through a rosary of beads - sitting among the rest of the crowd. This was my first sighting of a Tibetan monk from Dharamsala and never before had this journey given me a sense of time and the place I was in but now. The inhabiting exiled monks from Tibet have become a unique feature of the Indian town of Dharamsala they now call home.

Tibetan monk in a bus at Pathankot - Himachal Pradesh
Tibetan monk hurries to catch a bus to McCleod Ganj

The cab totally misses out on this aspect of experiencing firsthand the local feel even before stepping in the city. The buses are a great way to warm you up with local people who use them for regular commuting across the region. Interacting not always necessarily mean that you have to strike up a conversation, even a mere glance or a smile can work wonders for your trip which you are just about to start.

Not the amazing snow scenery outside which I had marveled all along but this sight of the marooned Tibetan monk inside the bus giving me a sneak peek into the Tibetan lifestyle and culture confirmed me this – Yes! I was in Dharamsala!

3. Speed is low, interaction with nature is more!

The third and final thing I have come to love about it is that the bus travels at its own pace, never zooming like a rocket launching out into the sky. It is gentle, owing to a bulky body and knows its limitations. That makes for ample of time for interaction with nature.

A scene from my bus window from Pathankot to Dharamsala - Himachal Pradesh
A scene unfolds ... through the bus window, on the way to McCleod Ganj.

The scenes are never thrown at me. Instead, they change gradually and allow me to take them all in. Muddy mashy streams trail along, heaven bound deodhars bathe in sunny splendor and snowy mountain peaks join me for company. I stick my face out of the window to take a deep breath in, and there, the gentle wind comes rushing to join in, kissing my cheeks in a soft whisper. I am thrown off balance at one of those mountainaceous curves, and yet, I catch the cows grazing in the valleys below. The small narrow roads diverge in towns unknown, so that I can wave at the kids and savor those moments when they wave me back. In between, I catch a nap only to get up to the smell of a perfectly bobbed masala chai at the roadside shack. The driver knows exactly when to stop for a quick halt at the roadside dhaba. And suddenly the air is full with a scintillating smell of fresh home cooked subzi and roti - oh so hard to resist.

The bus journey from Pathankot to McCleod Ganj left me tired but these points made it all worth. I came to realize how wrong was I! The fault was never in the buses, it was my perspective.

And, thus began my journey – from the bus to the bustle of McCleod Ganj – on an incredibly gratifying note. A lot of money saved, even more gorgeous sights captured and the biggest takeaway - got to fall back in love with the buses again!

PS: The seats weren't as bad as I have always thought them to be and I got a window seat for 2 of the bus rides I think. As for the one in which I failed to get one, I owe that to no one but my negativity!


How to reach Dharamsala/McCleod Ganj from Pathankot, Pathankot Cantt or Chakki Bank: what are the fares and other traveler information. 

If you are planning a holiday to Dharamsala, Pathankot is the chief junction that you need to get to. Pathankot Cantt or Chakki Bank is the nearest major railhead and Gaggal is the nearest airport.

IRCTC and the confusion surrounding Pathankot Cantt, Chakki Bank and Pathankot:

Please note that Pathankot Cantt (also known as Chakki Bank) and Pathankot are two different railway stations. If you are booking your tickets through IRCTC, don't panic if your planner doesn't throw any results for Chakki Bank. Just type in 'Pathankot Cantt (PTKC)' instead of 'Chakki Bank (CHKB)' and book your tickets - both are the same! From here, hire a rickshaw and get to Pathankot (PTK), 4 kms and 20 minutes away from Pathankot Cantt, to begin your upward journey to Dharamsala.

One more thing is that, if you are travelling from Delhi, you can consider taking the Jammu Mail - it is perhaps the only train that goes beyond Pathankot Cantt (PTKC) to stop at Pathankot (PTK) as well, so you can directly get down at Pathankot station and save yourself the rickshaw hassle.

Once you reach Pathankot (PTK):

There are three options to get to Mcleod Ganj: Taxi (quickest but costliest); bus (convenient and cheaper); the Kangra Toy Train (very very slow and crowded but apparently spectacular, ticket available at Pathankot station, usually available real time).

Pathankot to Dharamsala/McCleod Ganj by Train:

Toy trains leave from Pathankot at regular intervals and reach Kangra station after 5-6 hours. Dharamshala is 17 kms. from Kangra station and Mccleodganj is a further 10 kms from Dharamsala.

Initially this toy train was my choice, but we chucked it for the bus after looking at the crowd that was already on board the train. Also, our rickshaw driver who bought us to Pathankot strongly suggested we take the bus instead of the train. That’s how we decided to go in favor of the bus instead of the train.

Pathankot to Dharamsala/McCleod Ganj by Air:

Gaggal, which is at a distance of 15 kms from Dharamshala, is the nearest airport to Dharamshala. Jagson Airline operates direct flight from Delhi to Dharamshala, thrice a week.

Pathankot to Dharamsala/McCleod Ganj by Bus:

You will have to take an auto/cycle-rikshaw (Rs. 20) till Pathankot bus stand or Chakki bridge. There are plenty of state buses for Dharamsala/McCleod Ganj, almost every half an hour.

My Mumbai to McCleod Ganj Journey Route: Mumbai - Delhi - Pathankot - Gaggal - Dharamsala - McCleod Ganj.

Mumbai to Delhi: By Air.
Delhi to Pathankot Cantt: Jammu Mail (Departed: 20.30; Reached: 6.05)
Pathankot cantt to Pathankot bus stand by auto: Fare Rs. 100
Pathankot to Gaggal by bus: Fare Rs. 126 / ticket (Departed: 7.20; Arrived: 9.30)
Gaggal to Dharamsala by bus: Fare Rs. 17 / ticket (Departed: 9.45; Arrived: 10.25)
Dharamsala to McCleod Ganj by bus: Fare Rs. 13 / ticket (Departed: 10.30; Arrived: 11.05)

McCleodGanj and beyond ...

Reserve a day or two and get a lowdown on the the beautiful views of the town by trekking to Triund. Further, you can also take a detour and roll onto exploring another northern state. Pre-package your tour (Kashmir Tour Packages for example) or customize one of your own - play with all the options available and choose wisely - the choices available are simply endless!

Thursday, September 11, 2014

Ganesh Visarjan: Close up with Ganesha

It had been 4 years since I had been religiously covering it. But not this year. This year, I wanted to pass the baton to someone else. I wanted to hear the story but from the other side. And... it didn't take me long to circle who that someone else would be.

How about my dear blogger friend, Eli @ Expat LivAn expat journalist and writer from Norway living in Mumbai since the past two years?  I thought. It would be nice to hear what she feels about the Ganesh Chaturthi festival. Being a regular reader of her blog, I already knew her love for India and that she connected with the festivals and cultures of the country at the same emotional level that I do. Thinking thus, I immediately set off to shoot her an e-mail requesting if she would like to be a guest on My Yatra Diary... and pen down something on Ganesh Visarjan and the festival from an Expat's point of view?

And voila, there she was, in the midst of flying in from Goa and flying out to Europe, all excited to make some time and honor this little corner of mine. I simply couldn't stop feeling grateful and thanking her for this kind gesture of hers.

So on that note, there we go -- sit back, relax and read all that the festival of Ganesh Chaturthi means to an expat, from an expat's point of view -- rest assured, Eli is the kind of writer who shall leave you wanting for more! 


When I was invited by dear friend Arti to write about Indian festivals in general and Ganesha in particular, I could feel a huge smile spreading on my face.

Because even long before we moved to India over 2 years ago, I had a vision of the Indian festivals. Colorful, noisy, wild, crazy, fun and with crowds of happy people drumming and dancing all over, all the time. I was not disappointed. The festivals here are all that - and so much more. And the Indians make it easy for a curious soul like me to take part. In the start I was a bit intimated by the huge crowds, but my attempt to keep a low profile for me and my camera failed every time. Smiling faces, gentle hands invited me in, to come forward, so I could see better. Sometimes so they could get a picture of me also, because like some said: We have not seen a foreigner in real live before.

A big Ganesha idol Visarjan procession at Mumbai

For each festival I get braver and more relaxed, and appreciate the incredible hospitality that the Indians have showed me. I go with the flow, from festival to festival. I think though that the Ganesha Chaturthi has got a special place in my big Indian Festival heart. :)

Ganesha is worshiped in India as the God of wisdom, prosperity and good fortune, and is invoked at the beginning of a new venture or at the start of a journey. He is the one to pray to if you need to remove any obstacles that are in your way. He is seen as the most important Hindu God, and a God for everybody. During this week, he is worshiped, and then immersed in the sea, a lake or the river at the end of the festival.

Ganesha idol at a home in Mumbai during Ganesh Chaturthi festival

It’s so empty in our house now, little Sweetha says to me. I see sadness in her big brown eyes and she sighs as she looks down at the small lump of clay left on the tray - where Ganesha had been. And I get it. It is the relationship. It is strong and emotional. The elephant - headed God Ganesha is an integrated part of peoples’ lives. Of their joy, hope and belief. And I feel blessed to be a part of it. To see it and to feel it. It is intense and wonderful.

Even before the festival starts, great excitement is in the air. Families pick out their Ganesha statues to be painted and made like they want it, and they shop for lights and decorations. Then comes the joyful day when they bring their Ganesha statue home.

It’s like we are bringing home our mother or father, a friend said to me ecstatic, - we are so happy! 

All over Mumbai there are processions with people carefully carrying their Ganesha home, accompanied by crowds of singing, dancing and drumming people. Ganesha has arrived, he will stay for 1 1/2 or up to ten days, and he cannot be left alone. I found it pretty funny the first time I heard that people actually took time off from work, to stay home to keep Ganesha company. Now, I get it. I can feel the intense joy in Ganesha’s presence. There is a constant flow of family and friends coming to give offerings of fruit, flowers and sweets and they share food - all for him. A lot of joy, fun – a constant celebration.

But then comes the sad day, the immersion day. We do a last puja at home, and then Ganesha and His procession (including me) - leave the house. Due to heavy rain, we go by car - with Ganesha in the front seat, of course :)

Ganesha idol Visarjan at Mumbai carried in a car

When we come to the local lake, we find ourselves in a constant flow of people, following their Ganesh to the final journey for this year. Some are dancing to the drums, and most are shouting: Ganpati Bappa Morya, Purchya Varshi Laukariya (O Father Ganesha, come again early next year). The atmosphere is electric. To my surprise, I hear myself shouting along as well. 

It’s a chaotic spot, from an expat’s point of view. There is music and drums, and all around us small Ganesha processions appears - on foot, from rickshaws and from cars - and they all head up the hill, towards the lake. So do we. And like the others, we also stop to do a final offering, which includes breaking a coconut, the symbol for human ego (a hard nut to crack). Only to use force and do your best - to break your ego, you will overcome obstacles and release your inner energy. I like that. People are walking around, offering each other fruit, nuts and sweets. - Ganesha is the God for everybody, and this is blessed by Him. Like one big street-party really, except for the fact that we are here to bid farewell to someone.

Ganesha idol carried in rains for immersion in Mumbai during Ganesh Chaturthi festival
Everybody shares sweets,nuts and fruit.
Amid heavy rains, Ganesha idol puja before visarjan in Mumbai during Ganesh Chaturthi festival
Final offerings – a sad moment for many.

After the final blessings, (and stuffing myself with goodies), we continue to the lake. At one point the Ganesha-carryer is going one way to put Ganesha in to the water. 

Ganesha idol taken for immersion in  Mumbai during Ganesh Chaturthi festival
Last holding of Ganesha before seeing Him off.
Then we gather at a small temple, and get the Ganesha tray back, now with a lump of clay on it, to take home - to place where Ganesha had been, to fill the void. And that’s when I see little Sweethas sadness. And I feel sad too.

Ganesha temple in Mumbai during Ganesh Chaturthi festival

To me, this is an emotional festival, on so many levels, and that’s the wonderful part of it. Ganesha has left, but will for sure be welcomed next year with equal enthusiasm and joy. Farewell for now, Ganesha, see you again. 

Monday, September 8, 2014

16 Ancient Ganesha Temples in India

It seems like yesterday when our beloved elephant headed God, Ganesha had descended on earth and made Mumbai Pandals His temporary place of residence. But it's been a complete 11 day tour for Him and after all the fanfare, merrymaking, lessons teaching and modak popping, He is all set to ride back to His divine abode! It's Ganesh Visarjan today and with a heavy heart, we shall bid Him goodbye but the faithfuls also know, He is always there - either in the pandals or in the temples and above all in our consciousness.

So that the melancholy of Ganesha departure does not weigh me down, I decided to bring out a collaborative post by bloggers on 'Ancient temples of Ganesha in India' where He has been residing since ages to meet His innumerable fans like you and me! Though comprehensive, the list is certainly not definitive and you can add more in the comments section. Here it goes (in no order):

1. Ashtavinayaka - Maharashtra

Lenyadri Ganesha, Pune Maharashtra, Astvinayaka

Ashtavinayaka is a group of eight Ganesh temples in Maharashtra that are considered very important by the devotees of Lord Ganesh. These eight temples house the ‘swayambhu’ or ‘self-formed’ idols of the Lord Ganesh, hence the importance and high reverence attached to this octet. A pilgrimage to the Ashtavinayaka is considered to be a milestone in the devotee’s life. The eight temples/idols of the Ashtavinayaka in their religious sequence are: 1. The Moreshwar Temple at Moregaon 2. The Siddhivinayak Temple at Siddhatek 3. The Ballaleshwar Temple at Pali 4. The Varadavinayak Temple at Mahad 5. The Chintamani Temple at Theur 6. The Girijatamak Temple at Lenyandri 7. The Vighnahar Temple at Ozar 8. The Mahaganapati Temple at Ranjangaon.

2. Parvathi Ganesha of Hampi - Karnataka:

Parvathi Ganesha of Hampi, Karnataka

Hampi is one of the most sought after heritage sites in Karnataka. Containing the ruins of the erstwhile Vijayanagara kingdom (14th Century AD), Hampi draws tourists from all over the world to admire the architectural splendour of the Vijayanagara period. Out of the numerous monuments that feature in the must see list of anyone visiting Hampi, probably the most endearing is the Parvati Ganesha. This 16 ft Ganesha looks like any other from the front sitting in a mandapa that is typical of the Vijayanagara style of architecture. But when one goes around to the back you find that the Ganesha is actually sitting on the lap of his mother Parvati! One has to but appreciate the creativity of the sculptor!

3. Gokarna MahaGanapathy Temple, Gokarna - Karnataka

Gokarna Mahaganapathi Temple near Mahabaleshwar, Gokarna, Karnataka

Sri Maha Ganapathi Temple at Gokarna is no ordinary temple, but has a history going back centuries, in an era long before the events of the Ramayana took place.

Located near the Mahabaleshwar Temple housing the Shiva Atmalingam, this temple stands as a mark of respect to Lord Ganapathi, who had tricked the demon Ravana into giving up his special lingam - The Atmalingam (received as a boon from Lord Shiva) and appeased the fears of the Gods. The temple has a rare standing Ganesha, 5 feet (1.5 m) tall and two-handed; on his head is a small depression, which is said to be a mark of Ravana’s fury. The temple has its own identity and is also known as Sidda Ganapati.

4. A Farmer’s Treasure, Bhongir - Telangana:

Musical Ganeshas, Kanchipuram district

I was visiting Bhongir Fort, built by Kakatiya Kings of Warangal, about 60 KM outside Hyderabad on the Warangal Highway. At the boundary of the fort there are fields of a friend’s family and one day while his grandfather was tilling the fields they discovered an ebony idol of Ganesha with the trunk curved towards right, while most Ganapati idols have their trunks curved towards left. It is believed that the idol is many hundreds of years old but the farmer’s family has just left it in open in the field. It is believed that if a Ganesha idol is found with trunk curved towards right it signifies a hidden treasure. But when I asked the farmer if he or his family tried to dig for the treasure he simply smiled and said "Our land is our treasure, we have found God on our land, what else can be bigger treasure than finding Ganesha on our land ?"

I was too humbled by his answer and silently prayed to Ganesha.

If you are ever visiting Bhongir Fort (Old Name: Bhuvan Giri), just look at the first field at the base of the fort and take permission from the family to go and look at this rare idol of Ganesha that is blessing the land of Telangana for centuries.

5. Gulur, Tumkur District - Bangalore:

Gullur Ganpati, Tumkur District, Bangalore

Gulur, a small village in Tumkur district is known for its unique way of celebrating the festival of Ganesh Chathurthi. According to the local priest, there lived a poor brahmana in the village whose difficulties only increased with time. One day, Lord Ganesha appeared in his dreams and told  him that if he performed his (Lord Ganesha's) puja, then he would be relieved of all his difficulties. The brahmana was unaware of the formalities involved in performing the puja, and hence tried to gather information about it. While doing so, he met the Sage Agasthya who at that time was travelling from South to North and had halted at the village of Gulur. The brahmana explained everything to him and the sage helped him perform the puja,  the  rituals of which are followed even today. The sage first instructed him to collect clay from a nearby lake from which they made an idol of Lord Ganesha, about 8 to 9 feet tall, and performed rigorous puja continuously for 30 days. Later, the idol was immersed in the lake. After fulfilling these rituals as per the Lord's wish, the brahmana was relieved of all his problems. Since then, he continued to perform the puja every year and the ancient tradition of making the idol with locally available clay is being followed even today with equal fervor. The puja begins on the day of Balipadyami (Deepavali) and continues for about a month. The annual jatra is held on the third day after completion of the Karthika Masa. There is a  permanent idol of Lord Ganesha and Sage Agasthya, in the temple. A pillar stands at the entrance, opposite to the temple.

This unique tradition of hand sculpting a huge idol of Lord Ganesha with locally available materials and worshiping him ardently, in addition to the enthusiasm of the localites in celebrating Ganesha festival makes Gulur worth a visit, surely more than once.

Directions from Bangalore: Bangalore-Tumkur NH4-Via by-pass to Gubbi-Left near Maralur Lake towards Kunigal-Left near Gulur Circle.

6. Ekadasha Swayambu Ganapathis of Shenbakkam, Vellore:

Ekadasha Swayambu Ganapathis of Shenbakkam, Vellore

Shenbakkam is a part of Vellore and is found off the Chennai-Bangalore Highway. This place is famous for its Navabrindavanam of Madvaite Saints and Ekadasa Swayambu Ganapathis. Originally called Swayampakkam, referring to the Swayambu Ganeshas, the place is currently called Shenbakkam. Once a Maharashtrian Minister named Thukoji was travelling when his chariot hit something in the dark and the axle broke forcing him to stay overnight there. In his dream it was revealed to him that eleven naturally formed Ganeshas were found underground arranged in the shape of Om and he gladly built a temple after unearthing them.

7. Ganpatipule, Ratnagiri - Maharashtra

Ganpati Pule Ganesha - Ratnagiri, Maharastra

Nestled in the heavenly lap of nature by the dancing sand dunes of the pristine beaches of the Konkan coast of Maharastra is a nearly 400 year old ancient Swayambhu Ganpati Temple (Swayambhu means a self-originated idol, Ganapati) - Ganpatipule. It is one of the 'Ashta Ganapatis' (eight Ganpatis) of India and is known as 'Paschim Dwar Devta' (Western Sentinel God) hence remains flooded by thousands of devotees and tourists every year.

Ganapatipule is approximately 375 km. south of Mumbai, and has no rail head. The nearest Railway stations are at Ratnagiri and Bhoke.

8. Pillaiyarpatti Karpaga Vinayagar Kovil Temple, Chettinad, Tamil Nadu:

Pillaiyarpatti Karpaga Vinayagar Kovil Temple, Chettinad, Tamil Nadu

Believed to be 1600 years old, Karpaga Vinayagar temple in Chettinad, Tamil Nadu has this image of Karpaga (black) Vinayagar (Lord Ganesha), carved out of a single black stone by a sculptor called Ekkattur Koon Peruparanan. The trunk of Lord Ganesh here is curled towards right side. He is ‘Valamburi Vinayagar’ and believed to be a powerful deity who makes devotees’ wishes come true. Another unusual factor is the idol faces north direction. Yet another unique feature is Vinayaga here is with two arms, elsewhere in other temples Vinayaga idol is featured with 4 arms.

Location - Pillayarpatti is situated at a distance of 71 Kms from Madurai and 12 Kms from Karaikudi on Thirupathoor - Karaikudi state highway in Tamil Nadu.

9. The Shri Gopal Ganapati Temple, Fermagude, Goa:

Shri Gopal Ganpati Temple, Fermagude, Goa

This temple of Ganesha is situated in Fermagude, in Ponda at about 26 kms from Panjim. This temple is well kept and has a beautiful deepasthmabha (a multi tiered lamp post) in front and flooring of  temple is bright and beautiful, etched with Radhe Krishna motif. There are dwarapalakas on either side of the sanctum and a huge idol of Ganesha adorned with Silver.

Hundreds of years ago a stone idol of Ganesha was discovered by herdsmen while grazing the cattle. The idol was covered with Silver alloy in 1966 by the then Chief Minister of Goa.

10. Shreemant Dagduseth Halwai Ganapati Temple, Pune, Maharashtra:

Shreemant Dagduseth Halwai Ganpati, Pune Ganesh_Chaturthi-

Shreemant Dagduseth Halwai Ganapati Temple is one of of most iconic temples dedicated to Lord Ganesha in Pune, Maharashtra. The temple was established by Dagduseth, a famous Sweets merchant from Pune, in 1896, and was coincided with Lokmanya Tilak starting the Public Ganesh Festivals in 1894 as a mean to bring unity and nationalism in the society. The idea of building the temple came after the tragic loss if Dagduseth's son. His Guru advised him to make two idols of Shri Dutta Maharaj and Sri Ganapati and care for them like his own sons.

The temple has a rich and intricate architecture and is managed by the Halwai Ganapati Trust. Every year during the Ganeshotsava, the temple is beautifully decorated and special puja is perfomed. Lakhs of visitors come to have a darshan at the temple every year.

11. Musical Ganeshas, Kanchipuram:

Musical Ganeshas, Kanchipuram district

There are two Ganeshas in different temples in Kanchipuram district who are associated with music. The first is the Kutchery Vinayagar of Cheyyur. This temple dates back to over a thousand years. Here the Lord Ganesha is seen in a separate shrine, with his head titled to one side, swaying to the tunes of the various concerts that have been held before him over time. He also holds an Aksamalai instead of the Paasa in his forearm. Several reputed singers of yesteryears and aspiring singers of today have performed before him in order to succeed in their music careers.

Not very far from here, is the Sangeeta Ganapathy of Anoor. He is found on the alcove of the Astrapureeswarar Temple, with his hand on his thigh as if he is keeping count (Taal) to music. This Ganesha dates back to the 5th century. Worshipping him for seven days is said to grant the wishes of the devotees.

12. Achu Muri Vinayagar of Achirupakkam:

Achu Muri Vinayagar of Achirupakkam

When Lord Shiva set out to burn the Tripuras, the three mythical cities of the sons of Tarakasura, he forgot to worship Lord Ganesha who must be worshiped before beginning any new task. To remind his father and the world of this, Lord Ganesha broke the axle of his father's chariot. Axle is called Achu in Tamil and Muri is breaking. Lord Shiva installed a Ganesha at the place where the axle broke, and worshipped him before moving ahead with his mission. This Ganesha is called Achu Muri Vinayakar and the place is called Achirupakkam (the place where the axle was broken).

13. Manakula Vinayaka Temple, Pondicherry:

Manakula Vinayaka Temple, Pondicherry

This temple is found in the erstwhile French territory of Pondicherry (Pudhuchery now). The temple dates back before 1666, and houses the Manakula Vinayaka. The name has come about from a pond (kulam) that used to exist in the temple and considering the proximity to the sea used to get filled with sand (Mann). The uniqueness about this temple is that during the French rule, this Ganesha has been thrown several times into the sea but used to reappear the same place the next day. The temple has two rows of different kinds of Ganeshas lining its ceiling.Mother Mira of the Aurobindo Ashram is said to have had several visions of Manakula Vinayaka and his grace helped raise money for the ashram.

14. Trinetra Ganesh Temple Ranthambore - Sawai Madhopar, Rajasthan:

Trinetra Ganesha Temple Ranthambore, Rajasthan

Most travelers know Ranthambore for the tigers or for the formidable fort that tells the story of the valor of Rajput warriors.  But for the locals Ranthambore fort is also home to the most unique Ganesha Temple in the world – The Trinetra Ganesha Temple that is believed to be more than 700 years old. The Ganesha here has 3 eyes, like Shiva, hence the name Tri-Netra or Three Eye Ganesha. Along with Ganesha idols of his wives Ridhi Sidhi and two sons Shubh Labh are also worshiped in the temple. Painted in pink, the temple is situated within the precincts of the fort and normally touristy types give it a miss, but in my opinion it is a must visit to get the blessings of Ganesha, the first to be invoked amongst Hindu Gods.

The temple is in beautiful surroundings with the rear of the temple facing a deep gorge, as it was meant to keep the invaders away. The faithful complete a parikrama (circling the temple) of 7 KM and pray to Ganapati. There are a lot of Hanuman Langoors around the temple but most of them maintain a distance from humans and appear to be harmless.

Nearest Railway Station to  Ranthambore is Sawai Madhopur, which is well connected to major cities like Delhi , Mumbai etc.

15. Ganapathy Agraharam, Thiruvaiyaru, Tamil Nadu

Ganapathy Agraharam, Thiruvaiyaru, Tamil Nadu

This is an ancient Ganapathy temple dedicated to Ganesha, 12 Kms from Thiruvaiyaru. It is a quaint temple with interesting sculptures. We reached the temple just after it opened for the evening, and there was no one to guide us around. We ourselves noticed a few interesting sculptures and bronze idols, but it was only after I returned and was looking up the temples we visited for more information about the things we had noticed, that I read about an interesting idol of half- Ganesha and half-Hanuman. Such an idol is unique, and if you ever visit this temple, make sure you do not miss it.

16. SiddhiVinayak Ganpati, Prabhadevi and Borivli, Mumbai, Maharashtra

One of the most famous temples situated in Prabhadevi area of Mumbai is the 2 centuries old temple of Lord Ganesha - the Siddhivinayak Temple. This ancient Ganesha temple was constructed in 1801 and is famous for fulfilling wishes of the devotees.

Tuesday is considered to be the most important day for 'darshan' at this temple but even on the regular days the temple receives a heavy rush of believers. Made from a single black stone, one cannot help but admire the beauty of the deity which sports a trunk tilted to the right side. Flanking the deity on both sides are Riddhi & Siddhi, goddesses signifying fulfillment and prosperity. Stamped on the forehead of is Trinetra - an eye, which resembles the third eye of Lord Shiva.

Another Swayumbhu temple in Mumbai is the SiddhiVinayaka Temple in Borivli which is said to be self originated and ages old and much lesser crowded than SiddhiVinayak of Prabhadevi. Definitely worth a visit as well!

Dadar is the nearest railway station to Siddhivinayak Temple, Prabhadevi and the Swayumbhu SiddhiVinayak is situated at Borivli. Local trains are well connected and best way to reach these temples from within the city.


This list was compiled with humble gratitude to all wonderful bloggers who shared their travels with my diary and made this post possible:

- Np Prasad @ Desi Traveler
- Purnendu and Ekta @ Shadows Galore
- Indrani Ghose @ iShare
- Dhiraj and Amrutha @ Team G Square
- Priya Baskaran @ Aalayam Kanden
- Anu Shankar @ A Wandering Mind
- Deepak Amembal @ Magic Travels
- Chitra Manohar @ My Pilgrimage

Thursday, September 4, 2014

Ganpati Pandal Hopping, Mumbai: 10 lessons I learn from Ganesha!

Come Ganesh Chaturthi and suddenly Ganesha, the elephant headed God is everywhere - in pandals (canopied tents), stories, rituals, practices, symbols, sweets, social media, friendly neighborhood chats - I mean, literally everywhere! It's also a time when everyone gets busy hopping the innumerable pandals that have been artistically put together bang in the middle of the the street! there's the music, the modaks and of course the arti-puja routine that everyone loves to be a part of. But amid all this Ganpati pandal hopping frenzy, there is more than meets the eye. Dig deeper, crane your neck and put on your spiritual glasses, you see a crackle of light that He wants you to see and hear a faint voice that He wants you to hear.

Mumbai Ganpati Pandal Hopping, decorated with lights, flowers and coconuts during Ganesh Chaturthi aarti

So unlike previous years where we took delight in His physical beauty alone, this year let's pandal hop with a difference. Let's be an obedient student this time and try to enrich our lives with the simple lessons He wants us to learn. Let's hear it out from the man of the moment - Ganesha Himself!


His gaze is striking – small, petite eyes, never wavering, looking in a straight clear direction, always ahead.

Ganesha says --> Stay focused.

Ganesha at Mumbai Ganpati Pandal Hopping, during Ganesh Chaturthi festival
My eyes are my favorite part of me. Not for how they look, but how they see. ~ Chris Sebastian
Lesson # 1: No matter what the obstacles in life, they should never cloud our vision, and the aims should never dwindle, those hopes that harness our dreams should never die.


If you ever want to open your heart out – He is the one. His ears are enormous and that, for a good reason.

Ganesha says --> Keep ears open to the realities of life
and listen to your inner voice.

Ganpati with Ashtavinayaka theme at Mumbai Ganesh Pandal Hopping, during Ganesh Chaturthi
Don't think or judge, just listen. ~ Sarah Dessen
Lesson # 2: Our world is full of varying opinions that many a times force us to see things from a different perspective. Listening makes us humble in a way that we develop the ability to accept cases put forward by others which entails discarding the case we put forward in the first place. Similarly, the inner voice that resides within each of us, telling us, at every step of our lives, what to do, what not to do, how to and when to do becomes all the more audible – all we need to do is listen carefully and experience the things that are being expressed. And then, when we start to listen, we can truly change the world.


His head is huge; He is a patron of learning and wisdom and is often seen holding a feather pen in His hand.

Ganesha says --> The sky of spirituality has no limits,
flap your wings of wisdom and see yourself rise in a blissful flight!

Mumbai Ganesh Pandal Hopping, decorated with lights, flowers and coconuts
I am still learning ~ Michaelangelo
Lesson # 3: Always keep an open mind and look out for ways to expand your mental horizon. Stepping out of the comforts and embracing the changes with renewed enthusiasm enables life to churn out the best which we truly deserve. When we start looking at life like a lesson, stress walks out making room for wisdom which we gain through experiences. This wisdom acts as the gateway to inner peace and spiritual expansion. 


His trunk is powerful, He has a big mouth but He keeps it curled – perhaps, He believes in speaking less and is an introvert!

Ganesha says --> Silence is golden.

A large Ganesha at Mumbai Ganpati Pandal Hopping, during Ganesh Chaturthi festival
Silence is the language of God, all else is poor translation ~ Rumi
Lesson # 4: When was the last time you scrapped off a piece of time and had it for you to restore yourself spiritually, mentally, physically? Scriptures say where words end truth begins... Even Gautam Buddha had kept a vow of silence for a complete week before He attained enlightenment on the full moon day. The society is bound in a stereotype and many a times people who speak less may be labeled as introverts, even dumb. Truth is, this society has never been exposed to the immense power in the sound of silence which is both healing and enlightening. Silence is a form of meditation where our frequencies of mind, body and heart automatically tune with the frequency of our soul.


What do we do when our pens stop writing? We go to the market and get a new one, right? Well, He decided better. Without giving it any second thoughts, He broke off one of His tusks to continue uninterrupted writing of the epic Text Mahabharta.

Ganesha says --> Root out the selfishness and blossom in selflessness.

Cute Ganesha with a durva at Mumbai Ganpati Pandal Hopping, during Ganesh Chaturthi festival
Lord, make me an instrument of thy peace. ~St. Francis
Lesson # 5: The kernel of wheat has to die and fall to the ground before it can grow again into many seeds. Mother Teresa was a bright example of selflessness. By dedicating her entire life to the service of the needy, she chose to become an selfless instrument in the hands of God. Live your life to give – love, peace, happiness – not to receive, free yourself of all selfishness and fill yourself of selflessness so then we can work as a humble servant to uplift, care, share and love all our brothers and sisters in the world.


He Has 4 hands, one of them holds a weapon – the axe.

Ganesha says --> Detach – Karm kiyeja phal ki chinta mat kar.
(Act on, without attachment to the result)

Mumbai Ganpati Pandal Hopping, decorated with flowers and coconuts
The root of suffering is attachment ~ The Buddha
Lesson # 6: Life is in continuous motion; each day we are striving hard to earn money, name, fame, recognition, approval, etc. In doing so, it becomes easy to get attached to the outcome. Failure leaves us depressed while success brings us joy. Gandhiji had once said, My imperfections and failures are as much a blessing from God as my successes and my talents and I lay them both at his feet. The key here is to find a balance and cut ourselves from the result while living in the moment and doing our karmaDevelop this habit of surrendering all your possessions and expectations, whatever they may be, release control, and allow life to gift all that it wants to. See what happens.


He rides on a mouse – for a demeanor as gigantic as His, the mouse comes across as tiny and feeble but it really doesn't matter, He is proud of Him - the mouse is His most faithful follower.

Ganesha says --> Resources are never less or low – All power lies in you!
You have it in YOU!

Ganesha and His vehicle Mouse at Mumbai Ganpati Pandal Hopping, during Ganesh Chaturthi festival
If you think you're too small to be effective,
you have never been in bed with a mosquito. ~ Betty Reese
Lesson # 7: How often have we complained of life not offering us enough to soar high and achieve our goals? A mouse riding Ganesha tells us – Don’t! The deeper layer of His answer can be found in one of His stories itself.

Once His parents, Lord Shiva and Parvati, threw a world tour challenge to Him and His brother Kartikeya with the clause that whoever finishes it first shall be adjudged as the winner. Next moment, Kartikeya with His swift vehicle peacock had already set out. Ganesha knew the challenge was tough for Him and with His mouse; He would never be able to win this one. But, instead of fretting over and crying and cribbing, He got thinking. Soon enough, He was struck with a solution and was on the way. He circumambulated His parents 3 times over saying that parents mean the world for Him and His world tour was complete!

Success or winning is never about resources but about us. We are powerful souls and if we concentrate on the solution rather than the problem, there is nothing in the world that we can’t achieve!


He LOVES modaks, He has a big sweet tooth and loves to indulge in the sweetness of life.

Ganesha says --> Uncover your sweet side and take delight in the natural sweetness of the world.

Ganesha with a Modak at Mumbai Ganpati Pandal Hopping, during Ganesh Chaturthi festival
Live in this world as a traveler, and leave behind you every sweet memory. ~ Imam Ali
Lesson # 8: We are attracted to anything that is naturally sweet because that gives us delight. Pleasant words, gentle manners, a bright smile are like honey - sweet for the soul and beauty for the environment we inhabit. Sweetness is inherent in our innate nature – that’s how we were born, that’s how we were meant to graduate. Just like honey. Do we ever wonder why honey is so sweet. No. Because, sweetness is its basic nature!


The cup of His hand is always open, brimming with love and blessings and once we bow beneath, out flow the fortunes in our lives.

Ganesha says --> Trust Me, all your obstacles shall be removed.

Ganesha and His blessing at Mumbai Ganpati Pandal Hopping, during Ganesh Chaturthi festival
The odds may be against you and obstacles may be in front of you,
but have faith and know that God will guide you ~ Unknown
Lesson # 9: All obstacles, whatever they may be, shall be rooted out by worshiping Ganesh, assures an ancient Hindu scripture. Today, following the same assurance anyone beginning a new undertaking worship and often invoke the elephant God Ganesh’s name at the start of their projects. He is the God of the common people, and this He affirms by descending on the earth for 11 days during His birthday, sitting and celebrating as one amongst us. People relate to Him easily, take Him to be a true friend… a friend who is approachable, a friend who is affable and a friend who can be trusted to come to aid in times of need.


His love for food does not end in modaks! His pot belly stands testament - He is a BIG foodie!

Ganesha says --> Large stomach – Savor all that life serves out to you.

A big idol of Ganesha at Mumbai Ganpati Pandal Hopping, during Ganesh Chaturthi festival
When you are going through something hard and wonder where God is,
remember the teacher is always quiet during a test. ~ Unknown
Lesson # 10: Like a wheel in motion, life is constantly rolling. No two days are exactly same. Like the changing seasons, life changes according to the people we meet and situations we face. Sometimes these situations make us happy bringing the best out of us, at other times it makes us sad pushing us on a back foot. Ganesha says – Accept all with a smile. Everything happens for a reason and the questions life poses at us sometimes have their answers nowhere else but in the very experiences we are going through. Savor them.


These were my lessons.
What about you? Do you learn anything from Ganesha too?

|| Ganpati Bappa Morya ||